Chez Courty
Home Apartment Location View of Apartment HOW THINGS WORK FAVORITE PLACES
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Winter View from Salon of the Pont de la Concorde and River Seine

MY FAVORITE PLACES (under continuous revision)

DINING TIPS-Those places designated with a “*” are ones I have personally enjoyed and can recommend highly. The key to enjoying great restaurants in Paris is to enjoy them for lunch because the prices are generally 20% or more lower than at dinner. Have a light meal, some charcuterie, cheese, baguette, and wine for dinner at home.

*L’Affriole-17 rue Malar, 7th arr. Metro: La Tour-Marburg, Tel: (0)1-44-18-31-33- a small charming place with Provencal décor. The food is delicious and the ingredients are seasonal. Prix Fixe menu at lunch (2 courses with wine) and dinner (four courses, wine not included). Reservations are essential.

*Huitrerie Regis-3 rue de Montfaucon,75006 Paris, across street from Place St. Germain. Just oysters, shrimp, french bread, and wine. What could be better. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to Midnight. Tel: (0) 1 44-41-10-07

*Le Bistrot de Breteuil- 3 Place de Breteull, 7th arr. Metrto: Segur,Sevres-Lecourbe, Tel: (0)1-45-67-07-27. The location, food, and service make this place very special. Located near Les Invalides and situated on the place de Breteuil, almost in full view of the Eiffel Tower. Has a great outdoor terrace. Saturday lunch is a great time because you can go after the marche along Ave de Breeuil in the morning. Prix-fix menu.

*Brasserie Balzac, 49 rue des Ecoles, Metro: Cluny-La Sorbonne, 5th arr., Tel: (0)1-43-54-13-67. This brasserie dates from 1890 and is a favorite of the Left Bank arts and Sorbonne academic community. Sartre and Camus were regular customers.

*Bouqiiniste,3, quai des Grands-Augustins - 75006 Paris Inventive cuisine
Under the watchful eyes of Cédric Jossot, near the Pont Neuf, facing the book stalls, is the location of this Left Bank restaurant owned by the great Chef of the Rue Troyon, Guy Savoy. Inventive cuisine with such imagination it tantalizes you, very much inspired by the widely acclaimed dishes of the Rue Troyon. Attractive pricing for the quality service and fine food.

*Domain du Lintillac, 6 Arr, 20 rue Rousselet,nr.rue de Sevre and rue Babylon, (0)1-45-66-88-23. Specializes in Duck and Foie Gros dishes raised on family farm.

Le Pamhlet ________s. Tel: (1) 42 72 39 24. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon. or Sat. Average €30.
If you like everything about haute cuisine except the price, chances are you will love Le Pamphlet. The €30 menu changes often, but you might run into squid ink risotto, cod fillet on a bed of white beans, glazed suckling pig with root vegetables and an intriguing banana cake. Paris Notes Top 20 since Dec 05.

Helene Darroze-Expensive, highly acclaimed new chef
Hélène Darroze
4, rue d'Assas - 75006 Paris French fine dining_Darroze prepares her South West cuisine with refinement and panache, according a place to the rarest products from the finest manufacturers throughout France. In the discreet atmosphere of the large, elegant dining room, we enjoy the cuisine and also a rare selection of breads, an outstanding cheese platter and a cellar filled with treasures that a chatty sommelier delights in revealing. The service is cheerful and friendly.
La Table d'Hélene, 4 rue d'Assas tel 0142220011 Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Carte 27 Eur.

Fakhr El Dine
30, rue de Longchamp - 75016 Paris Lebanese cuisine
If Lebanon were to choose its culinary embassy in Paris, Fakhr El Dine would certainly be a top contender. The pretty off-white dining room plays host to a crowd of nostalgic Beirut natives as well as curious, food-loving Parisians. Try a delicious Kefraya or Château Musar wine with your meal. Don't miss it!


Buddha Bar
8, rue Boissy d'Anglas - 75008 Paris Fun and trendy
The Buddha Bar has been a 'must' address for jetsetters ever since it opened. Its dining room spreads out over a vast basement space. 'Beautiful people' from high society and the show-biz world seek out pure bliss in dishes proffering the exotic flavors and cutting-edge techniques of Californian-Japanese cuisine, served under the watchful eye of an enormous Buddha. Come fashionably late for a glimpse of the stars "à table"!


*La Fermette Marbeuf
5, rue Marbeuf - 75008 Paris Traditional cuisine
In 1978, while remodeling, an incredible "Art Nouveau" decor was discovered.  Since 1983, the restaurant has been classified as an historic building. All of Paris business, media, fashion and show biz elite come here. The head Chef, Gilbert Isaac, prepares cuisine of tireless regularity, changing with the market.


*Maison Blanche
15, avenue Montaigne - 75008 Paris Inventive cuisine.
Situated above the Théatre des Champs Elysées, on the prestigious avenue Montaigne, the Maison Blanche restaurant offers a fabulous view over the west area of Paris. The menu is full of the culinary creations from the famous twin brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, who take turns to come and run their new Paris kitchens without neglecting their famous starred Au Jardin des Sens restaurant in Montpellier


Bofinger
5, rue de la Bastille - 75004 Paris Brasserie
There is no doubt this is one of Paris' prettiest turn-of-the-century restaurants, not far from La Bastille and its Opéra House, in a lively, young area. An elliptical glass ceiling, stained glass windows and warm, wood-paneled walls set the tone in the main dining room flanked by smaller side rooms with a more private, cozy feel about them. It's no wonder people flock here!


*TRAIN BLEU (LE) - - FF - Restaurat Classique in the railroad station. Incredible ornate interior and food is decent as well.
Place Louis Armand; Gare de Paris Lyon; 75012, PARIS
Gare de Lyon. Tel.(0)1 43 43 09 06,(0)1 43 43 97 96

*La Bastide Odéon, 7 rue Corneille, Paris 6th arr. 0143260365 Closed Sunday, Monday, Christmas and August.
Former pupil of Maximin, the pope of cuisine in Nice (he was the chef of the Chantecler, restaurant of the Negresco Hotel), Ajuelos explores the sunny cuisine of Provence in all directions. Always looking for new recipes, he guarantees surprises, even in a "millefeuilles aux aubergines".  It’s the Provence camping in the heart of Paris.  Menu-carte 29 Eur. Formula for lunch and dinner 23 Eur.

Restaurant L'Equitable, 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel tel 0143316920. Closed Sunday evening, Monday and 15 days in August. Metro: Saint-Marcel or Censier-Daubenton. NEW and HIGHLY TO RECOMMEND!!
One of the great discoveries of this century. It is like a countryside-perfumed auberge, with apparent beams and all sorts of pillars. Let's not be too critic about the décor. After all, it's what in your dish that counts. The chef, ex Jules Verne, knows how to fix and accommodate his plats, original, refreshing and mastered. The portions are generous in quantity and savours. Menu-carte for 26 Eur!! A steal!

Cafe Varenne, corner rues du Bac and rue de Varenne.
The café doesn’t look special at all –common pavements on the floor, imitation leather benches, no decoration, nothing—but….but when the plates arrive, you understand why it’s always packed.
Mozzarella is from Buffala, the tartare is from Tartare, the French (Belgian) fries are hand cut, not out of any deepfreeze device, thick and crispy. Everybody talks with everybody, politely, with conviviality, you laugh, have fun and you eat simple but fresh and delicious food.

*Le Bistrot de Paris,33 rue de Lille, open for lunch and dinner, 7th arr. (0)1-4261-1683, Good straightforward bistro fare, excellent fish and seasonal specialties; a favorite with locals and luminaries. Former Prime Minister Jospin was there on a recent visit.

*Restaurant Palais Royale,110 Galerie De Valois, 75001, Tel. (0)1-40-20-00-27. Great location in the galerry in the Palais Royal and outside patio seating in the gardens at the Palis Royale. Food and ambience is excellent, jacket recommended for dining inside.

Irene Virbilia  L.A. Times (11/29/06) recommends

*Benoit,20 rue St. Martin (Metro:Chatelet) (0)1-4272-2576,open lunch and dinner e-mail:restuarant.benoit@wanadoo.fr.

Gaya Rive Gauche.6th Arr. 44, rue du Bac (Metro: rue du Bac),(0)1-45447373. Closed Sat. lunch,Sunday and August. Short walk from Apt.

La Table de Robucon,16, Ave. Bugeaud (Metro:  Victor Hugo) (0)1-5628-1616.Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Le Comptoir,6th arr.,Hotel RElais Saint-Germain, 9 Carrefour de l'Odean (Metro:Odean) (0)1-4329-1205. Open for lunch and dinner aily. No reservation for lunch.

Le Villaret, 13, ,rue Tarnaux 9Metro: Permentier) (0)1-4357-8976. Closed Sat., Sund. and August.Serves until 12 a.m. weekdays and 1a.m. Saturday.

Pinxo, Hotel Renaissance Paris Vendome, Plaza Paris Vendome, 9rue d'Alger (Metro: Tuileries) (0)1-4020-7200. Closed August.

Travel and Leisue -Best New Restaurants 2007

Sensing,19 rue Brea, Sixth Arr. (0)1-43-27-0880 dinner for two $140.Recommend Squab,bakerel tart, veal.

Le Chateaubriand, 129 Parmentier, 11th Arr. Tel. (0)1-43-57-4595, dinner for two $120,  World infused bistro menu.

Fogon,45 Qaui des Grands-Augustine,6th Arr. tel. (0)1-43-54-3133. Tapas,tuna confit,squid-ink paella.

Restaurant Dominique Bouchet, formerly of La Tour d'Argent and Hotel Crillon. Beautiful dining room. 11 rue Treilhard, 8th Arr. Tel. (0)1-445-61-0946.

Senderens(former 3 star Michelin chef). 9 Place de la Madeleine, 8th Arr. Tel. (0)1-42-65-2290 

Gaya par  Pierre Gagnaire-Seafood, 44 Rue du Bac, 7th Arr. Tel. (0)1-45-44-7373/ Gagnaire has 3 star restaurant elsewhere.

Benoit-One of France's most authentic bistros. Alain Ducasse now owns and reinvigorated the menu, 20 Rue St. Mmartin, 4th Arr. (0)1-42-72-2576

L.A. Times reader recommendation:

Lescure, 7 rue de Mondovi,1st Arr., (0)1-42-60-1891 Meals about $60. Cozy. dining on a terrace, traditional food and neighborhood place with welcoming staff.

 

 

David Lebovitz recommends:
Au Trou Gascon
40, rue Tain, tel 01 43 44 34 26(M: Daumesnil). Gascony cooking at it’s best. A recent meal included a crisp confit of goose that was the best I’ve ever had. And I’ve eaten a lot. Dessert was perfectly-thin slices of well-caramelized warm apple tart with flaky Gascon pastry. Somewhat of a splurge, but lunchtime features a fixed-price menu.


Bellota-Bellota
18, rue Jean-Nicot (M: Invalides, or La Tour-Maubourg). Great tapas-style bar, more upscale than anything in Spain, with fabulous hams from wild acorn-fed pigs. For dessert, stop down the street at Poujaran bakery for an almond-scented financier. Tel 01 53 59 96 96.


Chez Michel
10, rue Belzunce (M: Gare de Nord), tel 01 44 53 06 20. During the winter, there’s a chalkboard with “hunters specials”, which features superbly fresh game. On my last visit, I had a mound of tiny scallops piled up in their shells, drizzles with luscious Brittany butter and herbs, then a succulent wild pigeon with foie gras, ending with an unfortunate chocolate soufflé with little flavor. Now I never leave without ending a meal with a classic Breton kuong aman which oozes and butter and caramel from every delectable crusty layer. Reservations essential since it’s on most people’s list of favorites.


Cuisine de Bar
8, rue Cherche-Midi (M: Sevres-Babylon), tel 01 45 48 45 69, in the 6th. Open-faced tartines, or sandwiches, served on pain Poîlane, the famed bakery next door. I am addicted to the sardines and olive oil with crushed salt as well as the sliced chicken with garlic mayonnaise and capers. If the French had come up with the sushi-bar, it would be like this. No reservations.


Thomieux
79, rue St. Dominique, tel 01 47 05 49 75, in the 7th. Classic French bistro cooking, not too pricey and with less fanfare than the more well-visited bistros of Paris. Good cassoulet. Don’t let the cranky servers intimidate you; they’re actually quite funny once you realize they’re quite just being, um, French. (M: Invalides or La Tour-Maubourg).

Café Constant, 139 Rue St. Dominique, Seventh Arr. ;(01) 47-53-73-34, one of Paris’s most renowned cheft, C hristian Constant, who runs the famed and tres cher Violon d’Ingres next door. Snug bistro puts a modern spin on French classics (pork chop with oven-roasted onions;chocolate-covered poire Helene.


*L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon,5 rue de Montalembert
7th ARR.Tel: (0)1 42-22-5656.
No reservations accepted. Seating is at a dining counter surrounding the open kitchen. A la carte, about 60E per person. Very small portions. Recommend going to lunch which is available from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 6: 30 p.m. to midnight.

Stella, 133 Ave. Victor Hugo, 9th arr.

Eating at the Stella means brasserie classics such as steak tartare, boudin or hachis parmentier, the French version of plain old hash. The dessert special is blueberry tart, but the faces are the real interest. If El Greco were reincarnated in Paris in 1984, he would take his scalpel of a pen and sketchpad to the Stella. Michelin, with no category for sociological intrigue, makes no mention of it; Gault-Millau gives it 11 on its scale of 20 for ''honorable'' cuisine.

The restaurant is at 133 Avenue Victor Hugo. It is open every day of the week, but closed in August. No reservations.

Les Bacchantes, 21, rue de Caumartin, 9th arr.; Tel: (0)1-42-65-2535; Mon-Sat. Open until 12:30 a.m.;Metro: Havre-Caumartin. A wine bar primarily-50 wines by the glass-claimed as the most available by the glass in Paris. Cuisine Bourgeois, Go here for the opportunity to try alot of terrific wines by the glass.

RECOMMENDATIONS OF ELI HAIZLIP-Great Guy AND President of Bamboo Tours of San Francisco and daughter Ella, Middlebury student studying in Paris. .

 Ella and I had a really nice dinner at Les Ombres which is the rooftop restaurant at Quai Branly Museum. It has a glass ceiling and you can enjoy magnificent views of the Eiffel Tower throughout the meal, especially at night. This place is at the higher end, price wise, but was really beautiful without being all french frou-frou...
musee du quai Branly, 7th arr. ,Closed Mondays. Open late Thursday until 10:30 p.m.;Metro :line 9, Iena or Alma Marceau, Metro line 6 Bir Hakeim, RER C Pont de l'Alma,
Bus line 42, Eiffel Tower Stop. www.quaibranly.fr
 
I can also highly recommend a much simpler, bistro type place which Ella took me to called Chez Janou, Provencal style of cooking...Rue Roger Verlomme, 75005, near Bastille..Metro:Chemin Vert; 1 block from Place des Vosges and Rue des Tournelles.
Tel: 01 42 72 26 41..open everyday.
 
Conde Naste Travelers Top Hot Tables for 2006

Bound- replaces Barfly on Avenue George Cinq as a haunt for Paris’s elite. It is both a bar and eatery. Lunch is exexcs and show-bix figures. At night its rock revival music and light show. Menu is small plates rather than full-course. A full menu of sushi, sashimi, and maki, also pasta, veal and cheeseburgers (49-51 ave. George V. (0)1-53-67-8460 $$$$.

Citrus Etoile.- created by husband and wife in bright colors to remind them of the California they left behind. The chef’s approach is described as “uncomplicated”. The restaurant caters to Right Bank celebrities and politicians. 6 rue Arsene Houssaye (0)1 42-89-1551. $$$$

 

France Today’s Favorite Places to Eat Outdoors

La Maison de l’Amerique Latine- a block from the apartment and considered one of the nicest oudoor spaces for dining in Paris, behind two beautiful 18th century mansions. Lunch 40 euros, dinner 55 euros. Open Mon-Fri., 217 blvd. St. Germain, 7th arrond, Metro :Solferino, (0)1 49 54 7510.

Le Chalet des Iles Daumesnil- Located in the Bois de Vincennes near the lake. About 35 euros for a meal. Open daily in Summer. Ile de Reuilly, Bois de Vincennes, 12th arrond.,
Metro: Porte Doree, Tel. (0)1 43 070010.

Le Roland Garros. Eat in the garden of this tiny establishment next to the tennis stadium. Menus 40-50 europs, a la carte 33-80 euros. Pen daily except Sun. night, 2 bis av. Gordon-Benett, 16th arrond., Metro: Porte d’Auteuil, Tel. (0)1- 47-43-4956.

*Le Relais Du Parc. Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse have worked here. Set in a hotel’s paved courtyard with chestnut trees, flowers, and umbrellas. 45-75 euros. Open daily, 55-59 ave Raymond-Poincare, 16th arrond, Metro Boissiere, Tel (0)1 44 05 6610.

Le Pre Catelan- a deluxe establishment in a Napoleon II-era structure and beautiful garden. Lunch 70 euros, a la care 150 euros up. Open daily except Sun. night, Route de Suresnes, Bois de Boulogne, 16th arr. Metro: Port Dauphine, (0)1 44 14 4114.

SOFIA COPPOLA's FAVORITE RESTAURANTS AND BARS

Café de Flore Centuries-old artiste hangout. 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-1-45-48-55-26.
Le Castiglione Known for its cheeseburgers. 235 Rue St.-Honoré; 011-33-1-42-60-68-22.
Chez Allard Famed old bistro noted for poulet de bresse. 41 Rue St.-André des Arts; 011-33-1-43-26-48-23.
Chez Omar Excellent couscous, exceptionally popular. 47 Rue de Bretagne; 011-33-1-42-72-36-26.
Gerard Mulot Pastries and chocolate. 76 Rue de Seine; 011-33-1-43-26-85-77.
Bar Hemingway Classic bar with great cocktails. Hotel Ritz Paris; 15 Place Vendôme; 011-33-1-43-16-33-65.
Ladurée Historic tea salon beloved for its macaroons. 16 Rue Royale; 011-33-1-42-60-21-79. Go to www.laduree.fr for more locations.
Le Voltaire Chic bistro on the river. 27 Quai Voltaire; 011-33-1-42-61-17-49.
Mathis Supertrendy bar. 33 Rue de Ponthieu; 011-33-1-53-76-39-55.